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Abram Chernov
Abram Chernov

Buy Split Heat Shrink Tubing

So, let's say you have a VGA cable that has a slit in it. You don't want to buy a new one, but you want to protect yourself from sharp wires, or you just want to brand a new cable. You've decided on heat shrink tubing for your project. here's the problem - it's a 1/4" cable with a 1-1/4" wide connector. In order to get the tubing over the wire connector AND have it shrink down snug on your cable, you need a shrink ratio of at least 4:1, possibly even 6:1. For the costs of these highly overexpanded heat shrink tubes, you might as well buy a new cable. We have the solution for you.

buy split heat shrink tubing


I need to get some heat shrink tubing around something that is too big on the ends for it to slide over. Is it possible to cut the heat shrink along it's length and somehow reattach it before applying heat to get it to shrink?

How about cutting the tubing in spiral instead of lengthwise. I am tempted to try that as I have just regular heat shrink tubing (not 4:1) and I want to heat shrink my iphone cable and connector. Another option would be to add something under the tubing like a spring wrapped around the cable. That will give it some thickness.

You can sometimes get away with cutting it if your heatshrink has adhesive, but this generally isn't a good method. Ideally you want to put the heatshrink on before the connector goes on. If you haven't done this you can get away with getting larger heatshrink if it is able to shrink enough.

seen this actioned successfully @ Ex-Work; the 4:1 adhesive lined heatshrink was lashed snugly on the outside of the joint with lacing cord (using the correct tieoffs) then shrunk down. As the slit tube shrinks, it's thickness increases. This made it visibly push back against the lacing cord & made a really sound job of it. Hope that helps! :-j

PRT is being utilized in the automotive and aerospace industries and has been used by the military since 1998. Fit for all industries, from commercial to industrial, PRT can be applied like a traditional non-split heat shrink and requires only a heat gun for installation.

A heat gun is normally used to shrink the tubing, but you can also hold it a little way above a flame, taking care not toburn the tubing or shoelace. As suggested by Sue K., gently clamping the tip with a travel-sized hair straightening ironfor about ten seconds gave great results.

Although red heat shrink tubing was used above (for contrast), clear tubing produces aglets that are almost identical tothe factory-made originals, albeit slightly flexible. This is actually an advantage because they don't split.

If you are shortening a shoelace to length, you may find that a clear heat shrink tubing aglet is a close enough match tothe original aglet that you can get away with cutting only one end of the shoelace. In this case, re-lace the shoe so thatone end is the desired length and all the excess is on the other end, then shorten that end to the desired length.

Heat shrink tubing is primarily meant for electrical insulation, and isn't really designed to hold securely under extremeforces. Pulling a shoelace out through a tight eyelet can therefore pull off a loosely applied heat shrink tubing aglet.

For extra security, I've found that heat shrink tubing can be taken through two stages: In the first stage, applying heatwill shrink the tubing to a smaller diameter just as it was designed. Carefully applying more heat will take it to a secondstage where it just starts to melt and bond to the shoelace.

It's tricky to apply just the right amount of heat, as too much will cause the heat shrink tubing to either burn or split,and if the shoelace is synthetic it could melt or deteriorate as well. With clear tubing, the ideal moment is when theunderlying whiteness of air gaps starts to disappear as the tubing and shoelace begin to bond together. Otherwise, watchfor the surface of the tubing starting to turn shiny. Either way, immediately remove the heat if the end starts to curl orif there is any sign of smoke.

As suggested by Frank G., you could instead cut some thin slivers off a hot glue stick and feed them with the shoelace intothe tubing. The slivers of glue will melt while the tubing shrinks, so watch out for hot glue being squeezed out the endsof the tubing.

As suggested by Eric A., in order to combat the slight flexibility of heat shrink tubing aglets, try inserting a piece ofrigid wire into the tip of the shoelace prior to shrinking the tubing. Suitable wire includes solid brass wire (availableat hobby shops), unstranded picture hanging wire, a straightened staple, a length cut from a paper clip, pin or needle oreven a very thin nail.

Heat shrink tubing comes in a range of sizes and colors and is available from electronic or electrical suppliers (ie.places that supply electricians with switches, wires, components, etc.) or from some auto parts stores. Marine grade tubingis available from some boating or outdoor stores.

I saturated an aglet length at the end of the lace with good quality wood glue (which I have a lot of in my shop). Then Islipped the heat shrink tubing on over that, removed any excess, and applied the heat gun. The next day I had a very rigidand soundly attached new aglet!

I thought that all was lost, but then I found that I could cut the lace and re-seal the aglet using heat-shrink tubing,which worked amazingly well (and did not damage my girlfriend's hair straighteners in any way, which is perhaps even moreimportant). All for a very low cost and effort, but it couldn't have happened without your website.

I tried your heat shrink tubing idea - buying some at a local hardware store, cutting off the frayed ends, and shrinkingthe tubing with a heat gun (a bunsen burner or candle would do just as well, assuming the necessary fire preventionmeasures).

I note you said the heat-shrink aglet can be too flexible. I simply clip a section of straight sewing needle, a bit shorterthan the aglet, and slip it inside before heat shrinking the aglet. It makes quite a stiff result.

However I've added a small twist to your simple technique because the laces I typically repair don't seem to hold thetubing firmly enough: As I thread the lace into the tubing, I also put in a small sliver of glue-gun glue. Now, as thetubing shrinks, the glue liquefies, then upon cooling I have a nearly permanent fix. It also somewhat stiffens the aglet,which may be an advantage.

I tried your suggestion to use heat shrink tubing. (I had never even heard of heat shrink tubing!) Armed with a printoutfrom your web site I headed to Lowe's and bought it. I used the 1/8", held it over a candle flame and it workedbeautifully! I am so excited that I'm sending this to all my friends who have daughters!

Lowe's only had it in black so I painted my aglets with white craft paint. Worked beautifully! I did another Google searchand found clear at an automotive shop and ordered it. You may want to make a note on your web site that heat shrink tubingcan also be found at automotive repair sites.

I opted for your favorite repair, the heat shrink tubing method, since I figured this would be the most durable and mostfun. The repair went beautifully except that the tubing size I selected was a hair too large for the eyelets of my skates.I can get the aglet halfway through the eyelet until it sticks very hard and then with much torque and force I can pull therest of the lace through. I don't mind that. However, when pulling the lace the opposite way through the eyelet (after I'mdone skating), the inside edge of the tubing snags completely on the eyelet and eventually slides off the lace. The nextsmaller gauge tubing at the hardware store looks like it would be very difficult to fit over the thick hockey lace beforeheat shrinking so I may try a new method. I'll let you know...

If you do any DIY electrical or electronics work, it is inevitable that you need to use heat shrink tubing at some point. It is a versatile product that lets you insulate wires, add strain relief, color code cables, and even more. With special types of heat shrink you can even waterproof and solder!

In this article I will teach you how to pick the right size and type of heat shrink for your project, share a step by step guide for using heat shrink and teach you everything else you need to know to get the best results.

Heat shrink tubing (also known as heat shrink) is a shrinkable plastic tube with many useful applications in electronics work. It shrinks along its radius when exposed to heat, which is where its name comes from.

Heat shrink is available in a variety of materials, colors and sizes. No matter the wire size, shrinkage requirement or environmental demands, there is a heat shrink that is right for that specific application.

The properties of heat shrink tubing make it suitable for a wide range of applications. Most of these are related to wires and cables, but it is also possible to use it with other objects. Here are some of the most popular ways to use heat shrink.

One of the main ways in which heat shrink tubing is used, is to electrically insulate wires, solder joints, splices and terminals. Because heatshrink is non-conductive, it forms a protective layer that prevents accidental short circuits.

Aside from insulating electrical connections, heat shrink can also be used for repairs. For example, a wire with damaged insulation and exposed copper can be easily fixed with a section of shrink tubing.

Heat shrink tubing does not only protect against mechanical damage. It also provides a barrier that safeguards against liquids, like water, oil or acids. Similarly, heat shrink keeps dust and other unwanted small particles out.

One of the easiest ways to add strain relief to cables is to add a piece of heat shrink tubing around the part of the wire that gets bent. This causes some of the forces to get transferred through the heatshrink instead of the copper wire itself. As a result, the wire will last significantly longer.

Polyolefin heat shrink tubing is the most popular kind, and for good reasons. It can withstand high temperatures, up to 125-135C (257-275F), and shrinks quickly. Furthermore, it is durable, highly flame retardant and flexible. 041b061a72


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